Friends of ours living in China regularly pass on tried and tested travel tips, one of them being Laos. Our trip there in the October school holidays was just as they had recounted; wonderfully peaceful.
We stayed in the capital Vientiane for two nights at the lovely Green Park Boutique Hotel. Vientiane is apparently one of the smallest capital cities in the world, so easily navigated by Tuk Tuk or by foot.
A short ride out to Pha That Luang, the iconic golden stupa, was an impressive introduction into Buddhism and our first glimpse of the saffron-robed monks
The next morning we flew just 45 minutes north to Luang Prabang with Laos Air.
We were met at the airport by the hotel pick-up service to drive the 30 minutes to the Mekong Riverview Hotel situated overlooking the confluence of the Mekong and the Nam Khan river.
Luang Prabang is a UNESCO World Heritage site, hence the complete absence of any high rise buildings and the ongoing preservation of beautiful French colonial architecture. The centre of the town is small enough to walk or cycle around.
Bicycles can be rented; our hotel provided the residents with free usage!
The Mekong Riverview Hotel overlooks the mighty Mekong River; our room on the ground floor had a fantastic view across the river to the beautiful temples and forests beyond. The very personable hotel manager, Daniel, greeted us personally and over a cup of tea and some homemade cake, kindly gave us some tips of things to see and do on our five day stay, including a very useful map.
The mighty Mekong meets the Nam Khan River
Our hotel was a collection of standalone houses for the accommodation and another for the reception and breakfast area. The staff spoke excellent English, were always friendly and incredibly helpful. Many of the men had been monks at some point in their lives.
It soon became clear to us that Luang Prabang is a very special place. There is an atmosphere of peace and calm, which is almost impossible to find in a town in Asia.
We spent the first full day exploring the town by foot; the stunning Wat Xieng Thong temple is a literally 5 minute walk from the hotel. You are asked to pay an entrance fee during the day. A couple of times we walked through in the evening and there was no charge. The temple buildings are covered in mirrored mosaics, quite magical at night.
Daniel advised us to visit the Phu Si temple early in the morning as it is a steep climb up a hill overlooking the town. Most visitors come in the evening for the sunset. We walked down the opposite side, thus reaching the Royal palace; our next stop.
The Palace is well worth a visit, but be aware if you are wearing a sleeveless t-shirt or similar you will have to rent a shawl to cover your arms. Shoes should also be removed.
The following day we took a car and driver organised by the hotel to the Tad Se Falls, about 30kms south. This is a beautiful waterfall and pools reached via a longboat ride. Take swimmers and a towel!
The waterfall is of course best is the rainy season. If you like elephants, rides are offered, venturing into one of the pools.
The next morning we woke up very early to observe the alms giving along the streets nearby. This is what a lot of tourists come to see, so keep away from the main areas; the side streets offer the best vantage points and photo opportunities. Be aware not to talk to the monks during the alms giving, keep your distance, and show respect.
We love to go fishing on holiday; it has become something of a ritual, so Daniel had also arranged for us to go out on the Mekong that afternoon to try our luck.
We only caught a small fish, but the view along the river and the sunset on our return more than made up for it!
There is an excellent morning market (more good photos!) and a slightly touristy evening market in the centre of town.
The choice of good quality restaurants serving both Asian and Western meals with a strong French influence is plentiful. Stop for a sunset drink overlooking the river or an excellent coffee and delicious French pastry in one of the numerous cafes.
Khop Chai Deu Luang Prabang!
www.greenparkvientiane.com
www.mekongriverview.com .